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Granola to Go

Monday, October 26, 2009

Culture "Shock"

I am beginning the fourth phase of culture shock- acceptance. The honeymoon ended long ago (not sure if it was with the diarrhea or the strained back), followed by the frustration of things and then the depression of feeling stuck.

For me, more of the "shock" has been from the culture of the school than the culture of the country. Since most of our staff is Lebanese and I STILL don't understand much Arabic, I often walk by conversations, unable to participate. The school is fine (I am accepting) but I find it isolating working here. Maybe because my classroom is away from others and I have no hallway neighbours so I don't interact much unless I make it a point to go to someone's classroom. Since the turnover is not a pronounced as it was at ASK, there are not as many systems set up for new staff. I don't know how to do anything at all and there is no handbook or reference guide. I am always asking questions because I really don't know anything and people assume you do.

I am scandalized by what people wear to school. While students pushed the dress code in Kuwait, there are not even any apparent guidelines here. I see high school girls in sleeveless shirts and skirts above their knees. Teachers wear tops akin to the camisoles I wear UNDER my shirts. Jeans are the typical bottoms. If we had a casual day, folks would have to come to work in pyjamas and slippers or work out wear as that is the only way we could possibly be more casual. I still wear what I consider professional clothes.

At ASK, there was a drive in the teachers that I have yet to see in more than a few folks here. We were all planning for the future- Kuwait was our stepping stone into international teaching and to do well there meant (in most cases) a better school next time. So many of the staff here are local or married to locals that they do not have much of a drive- it all comes from the expat interlopers who are definitely the minority. People are not lazy or bad teachers by any means, it only feels like there is no desire for personal and professional development.

And the things in the city...People honk their horns like it might get them through traffic. They do this at any time, but when I am sitting on my balcony after work and one of the five traffic lights in Beirut has stopped people a whole block from my place to the corner and the honking continues for 10 minutes, that drives me crazy. There is also the honking of taxis as they pass by, which happened all the time in Kuwait and it still irritates me. In my fifteen minute walk to yoga, at least 5 honks and 2 drivers standing outside their cars calling out "taxi". ARG! If I wanted a taxi, I would be in one. Plus the traffic would make me later in a car than on foor. Then there is how people walk and drive and park. People do not look when they are walking. I have almost walked into many folks for this reason. Often when people drive around the one way streets in my area, they stop and back up, blocking the intersection whilst making a 2 to 5 point turn. When folks park, it would be on the sidewalk if not for the poles preventing this nonsense. Cars are parked so close together, even on the street corners, that as I pedestrian I have trouble finding an opening to walk through.

Then there is the "more of the same" aspect of domestic workers. I see Phillipina nannies taking kids to and from school, carrying their bags, walking dogs. They are often chasing after the kids while their parents enjoy a stroll along the Corniche. There are foreign labourers who pick up the trash along the Corniche and throughout the city. These were common sites in Kuwait, I did not think it would be so common here. There is a lot to be said for people picking up their own garbage.

Now that I generally know what to expect at school and around, it's okay. We had a great outdoor education trip where we took a group of fifty-some kids and 7 teachers to the mountains. That was the best experience of my career here so far. Of course, the apples which are at the end of harvest have been excellent and the fruits and veggies are generally a treat.

I must go now and get some things done. More later...

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